Tip 1: Backlight your TVTip 2: Build your own speaker stands
Tip 3: Construct a projection screen
Tip 2: Build your own speaker stands
One of the most common do-it-yourself projects is building speaker stands. Almost everyone needs them, you can make them cheaply, and they are a great starter project.
Many home-theatre systems use bookshelf speakers for left and right main channels. Bookshelf speakers require stands to get them to the right height. With store-bought stands, you'll probably find that one stand sits your speakers down too low, another raises them up too high, and the only stand that does work sports a ghastly price tag that makes you gasp. This is a perfect place to add some DIY know-how and get a perfect fit.
Basic bookshelf speaker stands
First, measure the footprint of your speakers, which is just the width and depth of the bottom of the speaker. You usually want to match that pretty closely with your stand; too much excess and the stand looks like it was made for larger speakers (and we don't want that!). The stand tops shown in Figure 1 are 20 cm wide and 20 cm deep. These stands are about as simple as you can get and still look good.
Once you've measured the base of your speakers, obtain some 2 cm thick, medium-density fibreboard (MDF). Cut two rectangles to your speaker measurements, then cut two more squares slightly bigger (for example, cut two squares 20 by 20 cm, and two more 25 by 25 cm). The smaller squares are for the speaker base and the larger ones are for the stand base.
Next, cut four longer rectangles; these should be about 5 cm less deep than your speaker base. So, if you have a top plate that is 20 cm deep, these rectangles should be 15 cm inches deep. To obtain the height, you'll need to know how high you want your speaker to sit. Then, just subtract 2.5 cm and cut to length.
The top and base of your stand actually total 3.8 cm in height, but assume 1.3 cm of settling, especially if you have carpet. In fact, if you have really thick carpet, you might want to assume even more. So, these might be 15cm deep and 75 cm wide (for example). Two of these become the connectors for one stand and two for the other.
At this point, if you're able, bevel the long edges of the connectors. You also should round all four edges of the tops and bases. This will add a polished, classy look to your stands and allow the base of the stands to sit more firmly on the floor.
With the rounded sides up on both the top and bottom plates, the two long pieces should be evenly spaced, centered, then angled slightly (see Figure 1 as a reference). Now, glue and nail in place. All that's left is to paint the stands; prime first, then lay on a couple of good coats of black or whatever colour you prefer.
Sturdier stands for heavier speakers
If you have heavier speakers, you might want a sturdier design. This design also works well if you need your speakers quite high; the basic stand sometimes looks a little wobbly as the connector pieces get really lengthy. The basic procedure is similar, with just a few twists for stability.
First, I'll assume you have larger speakers. For this job, mine had a footprint of 40 by 25 cm, so my tops were a bit larger than in the basic stand. Again, round the tops. The base follows the same process; in this case, my bases were 45 by 30 cm, also rounded. Instead of long connector pieces, though, I made a square box out of MDF (2 cm thickness is fine). This box was half the depth of the top -- in this example, 12.5 cm -- and the height was calculated as shown in the basic stand section. For a nice look, the edges of the box should be sanded slightly round, to look less... well... boxy.
Glue and nail this box to the base of your speaker; I set mine in the shape of a diamond for a bit more visual interest (see Figure 2).
Now glue and nail on the top. Before you finish up and paint, though, drill a hole in the centre of the top plate, which opens into the box that acts as a support. Now prime and paint. However, before putting these stands into action, fill the box support with sand. This really solidifies these stands, allow them to hold heavier speakers and look more substantial.
Costs involved
Believe it or not, it cost me only about $50 to make all four stands. Similar stands can run up to hundreds of dollars in higher-end shops. Clearly, this is a no-brainer way to get into DIY and save some bucks. Also, don't be afraid to get creative. If you don't have a lot of tools, find materials you can work with that require only simple tools. Buy premade shelves and have the hardware store cut them to the sizes you need. Substitute threaded rode (the line you see attached to the anchors of small boats) or PVC pipe for the centre supports. Add door or corner moldings to get a different look. Whatever you can come up with that gets the job done and saves you money will make your project successful.
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Paul Green
26/05/2005 12:13 PM
Hi, Is it possible to ask questions on this forum? I have a home projector system with 5.1 dolby and I have some questions about running a HD set top box with my set up. Paul
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Shannon
28/07/2005 08:50 AM
If I hang my flatscreen on my wall, what type of lighting is available to put behind it? Would a battery powered push-light work? I figure that may be slim enough to fit and not get crushed? Thank you!
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Nick
18/12/2005 07:58 AM
I want add some light behind my tv. I have a 51" projection tv and have two recessed lights in the ceiling that are directly behind the tv. Do you have any suggestions as to what kind of lamps would work the best.
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matt
17/11/2006 04:24 AM
You can pick up any fixture that you want from any hardware store or lighting store. I have a 46" widescreen and I just got a litlte Under Cabinet type light from Home Depot. Then, I got a light from www.bluemaxlighting.com to match. Look for a light that has at least 6500k. Make sure you match up the T measurement. Bulbs come in T4, T5, T8, and T12 mostly. This refers to the diameter. T4 is half inch diameter. T5 is 5.8. T8 is 1 inch. T12 is 1.5 inches.
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Mick
02/02/2007 10:44 AM
I found the "TRETTIOEN" LED strip lights at Ikea work well, blue, green or white. They come with sticky pads to attach directly on rear of TV. Here is a link: http://www.ikea.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?topcategoryId=15579&catalogId=10103&storeId=7&productId=11158&langId=-20&categoryId=16235&chosenPartNumber=30098175
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gmoney
12/07/2007 03:20 AM
IKEA LED light strips now called DIODER
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tom_mandory
03/09/2008 10:07 PM
care to acknowledge that you stole this from O'Reilly book " Home Theatre hacks"?
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